Shade is the difference between a deck you use in July and a deck you look at from inside. A cover extends the season on both ends, keeps furniture and finishes out of direct sun, and turns an exposed platform into an actual room without walls. It is the most requested upgrade we hear about, and the one most often assumed to be simple.
It is not simple, and that is the useful thing to know going in. Anything overhead changes how wind and snow load the structure below it, so a roof or pergola is a structural project rather than a decorative one. The contractors we connect you with design covers as a continuous load path, from what is overhead down through posts and framing into footings that were sized to hold it.
A cover is priced by what it has to carry and where that load lands. Size and the height of the deck above grade set post lengths and bracing. Whether the existing footings can take the added weight, or whether new ones have to be dug and how easily equipment can reach them, is often the biggest variable on a retrofit. An open pergola and a solid roof are different structures, and a solid roof brings roofing, runoff, and a flashed connection at the house. Any deck framing that needs upgrading to receive the cover gets added to that.
Often, but never assume it. The existing deck was framed for people and furniture, not for the sustained snow and wind loads a cover collects. Someone has to verify the posts, the framing they land on, and the footings underneath before anything goes overhead. Sometimes the answer is yes with reinforcement, and sometimes the deck needs rebuilding first.
It needs a real load path, yes. An open pergola carries less snow than a solid roof, but it still catches wind, and wind loads work in directions that a deck was never designed for. Pergola posts still land somewhere, and where they land has to be able to hold and restrain them.
It can, especially over a south-facing room where that winter sunlight is doing real work. This is worth talking through before the design is set. Pergola spacing, an open section near the house, or how far the cover projects can preserve daylight while still giving you usable shade outside.
Somewhere you choose deliberately, or somewhere you regret. A solid cover concentrates runoff along an edge, and in Utah that edge also drops snow and ice. Gutters, downspout routing, and grading away from the house get planned with the structure, along with how the roof ties into your existing roofline.
Ground-up decks laid out for how you actually use the yard, then built from the footings up. Footing depth below frost, a flashed ledger at the house, joists sized for real spans, and stairs and guards detailed for your height above grade.
Learn more →When boards rot, posts shift, or the frame bounces underfoot, the fix depends on what is underneath. A contractor opens up the ledger and looks at the footings first, then tells you plainly whether you are repairing a sound structure or replacing a tired one.
Learn more →Guards and stairs carry more code detail than the rest of the deck combined, and older ones often would not pass today. Post attachment, infill spacing, tread and riser consistency, landings, and a handrail your hand can actually close around.
Learn more →New decking over old framing only works if the framing earned it. Joist spacing, fastener type, and drainage get checked before the first board goes down, along with straight talk about heat, cleaning, and what each surface asks of you later.
Learn more →New build, repair, cover, railings, or resurfacing, tell us which and we will take it from there.